No owner should be with out one!

Well, it looks simple enough, seems simple enough so it should be simple to use this tool to take any Glock apart whenever you need it!!!......however, THAT''S where the problems begin when the tool is at the house and you need it at the range in your hand!. Too many times I''ve reached for this tool and it was hiding miles away, so I''ve about decided that if you own multiple Glocks then you need to keep one in each Glock box and stuff one in your range bag and stuff another one with your cleaning supplies at the house so you''ve always got this simple little device when you need it. I''ve never quite figured out what causes it, but the tool is always parked somewhere where it doesn''t do you any good unless you develop a plan to hide out multiple ones in strategic places so one should always be nearby. But if you are going to take a hammer and tap on this rascal, I''d suggest that you use light taps with either a plastic hammmer tip or rubber tip or at least a brass tip so you don''t wind up bending it. Sometimes the body pins need just a few light repetitive taps on the tool to get the pins moving, but if rather soft taps don''t do the trick then chances are that you are working on the trigger pin ]biggest diameter one with the 2 deep grooves cut so that the slide release lever can center on either end of the pin......the hole on that lever can snag the pin during removal and also block reinstallation, but usually a little bit of forward movement on the slide release lever will help center up the hole on the pin and allow the pin to move, which is exactly why Glock says when looking at the gun from the rear, push the pins on the left side and left them come out the right side and reverse the process going back together so that you only have 1 snag point possible on the trigger pin instead of having to cross 2 of them. Also, when reassembling the Glock, put the upper medium diameter locking block pin back in first so that the wraparound spring on the slide release lever does not block the path for the upper locking block pin ]when you get to the trigger pin, it only takes a tad of pressure to compress that curved spring out of the way[. Yeah, you only have 3 pins holding the Glock together so you would think it would not outsmart you, but Glock gives you the pin removal sequence and directon and same for the reassembly just so that you don''t discover these little hidden roadblocks that 3 different diameter pins can generate ]same thing for them specifying which direction to push them out and to push them back in.....there IS a reason, but it may not be readily obvious to most since each pin will only fit properly in one hole ]but the direction of travel and sequencing order can generate problems[. Sooner or later you will reverse the pin reassembly order and you will find out the hard way that pieces can sneak into the immediate path of other pins if you go back together in the wrong sequence, and driving out from the left ]which is the side the slide release lever pivots down inside the groove[ will only give you 1 chance to snag instead of 2 chances, and I can about guarantee that if you install the trigger pin first you will find a curved spring sticking up in the way of the upper locking block pin! Also, I always check the feel of the slide release lever to make sure that the hole lined up with the groove on the left side of the pin, as once it is perfectly lined up you can shift the lever backwards and forwards over 1/16 easily in that groove, but if the pin did not center on the lever hole then there will be zero front to rear slack in that movement indicating you are binding up on the side of the trigger pin groove. It''s a simple 2 second procedure that most don''t even check, but run enough rounds through the Glock and excessive wear will begin to show on the trigger pin or the slide release lever or both all due to a very slight misalignment which could have been easily checked and resolved in seconds. And, if you aren''t happy with the pins Glock supplies, there are titanium pins out now to replace all 3 body pins holding the glock together and you can buy them as a 3 piece set or singly ]the factory rear grip pin is soft plastic instead of metal, which is why I go titanium on the pins[. There can come a time when you need to open up your Glock quickly and having the disassembly tool sitting at the house with your cleaning supplies does not help out when you and the Glock are at the firing range! Yeah, the tools are a tad expensive for what they are, but it beats trying to find a solid right size green stick of wood to use instead and the wood is still going to break before you are done anyway! It also helps to keep a small pocket screwdriver in each box or range bag for those little items you normally don''t think about like adjusting the elevation and windage on the rear sight screws or maybe you just need to apply a little pressure against the slide lock lever spring or magazine locking/release arm pin that you have to fish around to get it back into the channel and your favorite stick breaks again. Murphy''s Law WILL WIN, but you can at least make it more difficult for Mr. Murphy by having the right tools with you!

great tool,